I'd have to go back out and look. I cannot go in much or any at all. The slip on is as close as I want to go now to the shock.Maybe even inside the frame more hidden?
I do not! But what a great idea! I wonder if I would be able to accomplish that myself if I get the die. I could bring a nut that fits to the hardware store to get one.Do you have prior experience with JB Weld glue? I believe you could use an appropriate die to both clean up the damaged foot peg mount threads and help build up what material is missing with a light JB Weld application cut with the die positioned bottomed out on the post backwards. To Cut threads way back off the post for added strength
Can you elaborate on this? I do not understand clearly. Thx! Maybe once I see the die, it'll make more sense to me....... cut with the die positioned bottomed out on the post backwards. To Cut threads way back off the post for added strength
I'll see, but the slip on can't move in.Can you straighten the mounting tab out? I have my exhaust hanger bracket mounted to the solid unthreaded part of that stud and the footpeg presses up against it. Washer and nut go on as normal
Remarking I have drilled out broken studs from steam turbine cases, and taken out the offending part such that it looked like a helicoil, almost... One uses many different drill diameters so that as they drift off center the force vector can be steered to correct the drift. It takes a long time. If, after drilling the shaft, you then have the misfortune to snap off a tap in the pretty hole...then yerphuckedrightangood. I expect I'd cut off about 8mm and weld on a bolt...using tig and an experienced hand, if I couldn't save the threaded end. I expect you can save it. Mind the welding currents don't fubar the bike electrics... Best o luck.A little late to the game, but I would use a cutoff wheel and cut off the threads, then center punch in the carefully laid out center of the protruding shaft, drill a hole whatever size the tap drill is for that stud I cut off, being careful to drill straight and true to the center of the shaft, then tap it and buy/made a stud (set screw maybe?) so that the original amount of threads stick out, and either locktite it in place, or first drill a cross hole to be able to access the stud to weld it in place.
Edit: After I posted this, I see RC4MAN posted almost the same thing while I was typing mine!
My 1980 650 special had that same issue. I cut off the threaded portion of the stud, then drilled and tapped the unthreaded portion of the stud. I used a replacement stud that had a reduced diameter on half of the length (8mm I think) and the other half of the stud was 10 or 12 mm (the original size). Worked out fine.Thanks! He fabbed it from aircraft exhaust. I'll take a look at your two options tomorrow. Very happy that this might work out just fine. This forum is awesome!